Products

Yes. SubTerrain foam products are made from unique, high-density foam and will not crumble or fall apart.

When modeling in O scale, Inclines and Risers need to be placed side-by-side to double their width.

Tunnels can be made in a variety of ways.

Ready Landforms are an easy way to add a tunnel. They are preformed, landscaped and ready to place on a layout. Available in HO and N scales and straight or curved designs.

Self-supporting Shaper Sheet is another easy way to add a tunnel. Form into tunnel shape and arrange over track. Cover in Shaper Sheet Plaster and add landscape materials. For added realism, paint underside of Shaper Sheet to resemble blasted rock.

Use 1/4" Foam Sheets or 1/4" Modeling Sheets to make tunnel walls and roof. Use No-News Paper or newspaper to add paper wads around the tunnel foundation to model terrain, and add a double layer of Plaster Cloth to form a hard shell.

Use the Tunnel Liner Form to mold tunnel sections from Lightweight Hydrocal, Shaper Sheet Plaster or Super Strength Plaster. Connect sections together with Plaster Cloth to form desired length of tunnel.

Click here to view a video about making a tunnel.

Risers and Inclines are 2 1/2" wide. You will need to install 2 sets side-by-side for any scale double track.

Yes, more experienced modelers can adapt the Layout Kits to another scale. A new track plan will need to be configured, and some items including, Portals and Culverts may not be the correct size for your scale. You may want to consider using the Mod-U-Rail System. 

Cut out a section of Riser where the under table switches will be located. Use 1/4" piece of Foam Sheet, Masonite or plywood to bridge the gap. Notch each end of the Riser to accomodate thickness of material. Material should be level with Riser. Glue into place and mount the switch.

Yes, they can be carved with a Hot Wire Foam Cutter, Foam Knife or other hobby knife.

Click here to view a video about Foam Sheets.

We do have some suggestions:

Method #1 - Install and wire the track for "block " control. This requires a seperate power pack or transformer for each train and wiring a number of switches to determine which transformer has control of a train on a particular block of track. Block control is not expensive, nor is it difficult to install.

Method #2 - Use a digital command control (DCC) system. DCC requires a more expensive electronics package, with corresponding decoders in your model train engines. A DCC system can be designed to control switches, lights, sounds and other operations.

For expert, more detailed advice, you can research these topics via books, railroad magazines and Web sites. Local model railroading clubs are also a great resource.

Yes.

Incline Sets are a packaged set of foam inclines that create a pre-determined 2%, 3% or 4% incline within a specific distance. Incline Starters contain from 6 to 8 two-foot sections of 2%, 3% or 4% foam inclines, each beginning at 0%. Starters are used in combination with sets and risers to simplify the construction of even the most complex layouts.

Click here to view a video about Inclines/Declines.

Yes, Flex-track can be used with no problem. 

Cut out a section of Riser where the under table switch will be located. Use 1/4" piece of Foam Sheet, Masonite or plywood to bridge the gap. Notch each end of the Riser to accommodate the thickness of the material. The material should be level with the Riser. Glue into place and mount the switch according to the manufacturer's instructions.

We wanted a foam product that was lightweight and easy to use. You can cut SubTerrain quickly and neatly, it will not crumble or fall apart, and working with SubTerrain high-density foam rquires no previous modeling experience. When cut with a Hot Wire Foam Cutter, it does not emit toxic fumes.

Cut a notch in the Risers and install a hard board to support the mechanism. Cut a hole in the base for installing and servicing the switch machine. Complete the installation according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Mod-U-Rail kits are not pre-built. They are kits containing terrain and landscape materials needed to complete each modular section. Track, train and other details are sold separately.

For the 9 x 9 layout, you need the following:

(2) ST4801 - Straight Kit
(2) ST4790 - Straight Stand
(5) ST4802 - Corner Kit
(5) ST4791 - Corner Stand
(1) ST4780 - Connector Set

The tightest turn Risers provide is 9”.

This is possible, but requires designing a new track plan and reconfiguring the layout of the Risers and Inclines/Declines.

The track plan for the Grand Valley Layout Kit was designed using Atlas Code 83 Snap-Track.

No, you do not need to use Risers under Inclines, but using both allows you to increase the elevation of the track throughout the layout to create lower surrounding areas easily, such as creek beds and ravines. For further information and instruction about using Risers and Inclines, watch the how-to videos on our website and consider purchasing the SubTerrain® Manual.

Our SubTerrain® Lightweight Layout System is made of a high-density foam material that can withstand a lot of weight. It's designed for this application.

The extra items are terrain and landscape materials needed to complete the suggested layout. Exact placement depends on your layout design. The included instructions cover how to use most of the materials, and our website has loads of how-to video demonstrations. Also, the individual products contain instructions explaining how to use them.

Plywood or particle board would work well. We recommend 3/4" medium-density fiberboard (MDF). Be sure the material you use is sturdy and provides a work area large enough to accommodate the Scenic Ridge Layout.

The "n" stands for narrow. On30 describes the modeling of narrow gauge railways, using O scale trains with narrow tracks that run on HO gauge track. For your On30, you can use SubTerrain Risers and Track-Bed.

A standard powered locomotive will not have an issue making it up the grades we offer (2%, 3% and 4%). The issue with a train having trouble making it up a grade depends upon how many units of rolling stock it is pulling. The more powerful the engine, the more rolling stock it will be able to pull. As there are so many variations in locomotives and rolling stock, this is an at-home trial and error test.

You can add a switchback (or extreme incline) to your layout following the same techniques used to model a SubTerrain track area. Start by constructing an incline base with a 1 " Foam Sheet. Construct the support with 1/2 " Foam Sheet and add 1/2 " incline pieces for the track. Fill the contours with newspaper wads, cover with Plaster Cloth and apply terrain products as usual.

We do not make 3.5 inch risers. To accomplish this, install our 2 ", 1 " and 1/2 " risers on top of one another to create that height. Each package contains 4 each and each piece is 2.5 " wide x 24 " long. The quantities to purchase will depend on the planned length of your track.

Yes, connector plates made of composite wood and are cutable.

Suggested track plans for N and HO are included in the instructions, however Mod-U-Rail is compatible for scales Z through O.

To build the Scenic Ridge layout as it is pictured in the catalog and on the Website, you will need to purchase the following items (additional common household modeling supplies are also required).
-Scenic Ridge Layout Kit
-Town & Factory Building Set 
-Scenic Ridge Atlas Track Pack 

We recommend Foam Tack Glue for attaching track.

Click here to view a demonstration of attaching track.

Mod-U-Rail Modules can be connected to the Scenic Ridge Layout. To connect the two together, we recommend using the Mod-U-Rail Connector Plate Set.

A modified track plan that connects Scenic Ridge to the Mod-U-Rail Modules will need to be configured. We do not have track plans, but there are many available resources. We suggest searching the Internet or purchasing a model railroad track plan book.

Latex paint can be used to paint Profile Boards. We suggest lightly sanding boards with 220-grit sandpaper to remove any rough areas before painting.

No, do not cut the Track-Bed with a Hot Wire Foam Cutter. This may emit toxic fumes.

We recommend using the Hot Wire Foam Cutter with Risers, Inclines/Declines, Profile Boards, Foam Sheets, Modeling Sheets, Road Riser, and Support Panels.

Using the Hot Wire Foam Cutter on products other than what is listed is not recommend. Toxic fumes may be omitted.

The opening width, or length of the wire from prong to prong is 4 1/2" (11.4 cm) wide. The depth from the prong down to the handle, is 6" (15.2 cm). When using the optional straight rod, the tool cuts a path 3 1/2" w x 6" d (8.89 cm x 15.2 cm). Use this option to cut in tight places and for faster cuts.

Click here to view a video about the Hot Wire Foam Cutter.

You should not wash any Woodland Scenics plaster product down the drain. This includes Shaper Sheet Plaster, Carving Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster, Mold-A-Scene Plaster, and Smooth-It.

Plaster residue that remains after applying Plaster Cloth should also be discarded in the trash.

Another way you can apply Plaster Cloth is to lay managable sizes of dry Plaster Cloth strips on the project. Use a spray bottle to mist with water and use your fingers to smooth out the plaster filling in all the holes.

Click here to view a short video about Plaster Cloth.

No. The Hot Wire Foam Cutter is designed to use the Replacement Wire. The special nichrome wire retains an even temperature, which is necessary for consistent cutting of our foam products.

Both adhesives work equally well. Foam Tack Glue is high tack white glue and works well as a contact cement. Low Temp Foam Glue bonds instantly and works well for a quicker installation.

Click here to learn about adhering SubTerrain.

Foam Tack Glue can be used to attach plywood, Risers and Inclines/Declines, and Track-Bed to pink extruded foam, but it must first be sanded with #120-grit sandpaper. This type of foam has a slick surface that needs to be roughed up so the glue has something to hold on to.

Use the contact gluing method to adhere materials to the extruded foam. Spread an even layer of Foam Tack Glue on both contact surfaces. Let the glue dry until clear (maximum working time is one hour) and then press surfaces together. The glue will bond instantly, creating a secure adhesion.

Yes, Foam Putty can be painted. The dried surface of Foam Putty is gritty. For a smooth surface, sand dried Putty with a very fine grade sandpaper (220-400 grit) before painting. Apply two coats of paint, sanding lightly between coats.

Foam Putty™ has a 2 1/2-year shelf life and cannot be reconstituted. You can determine the manufacture date of a particular container by looking at the code on the lid. The first number denotes the year (8 = 2008) The next three numbers denote the day of the year (085 is the 85th day of the year = March 25) The expiration date for this code is March 25, 2010.

Here are some drying time guidelines:

Very thin layer - 20 minutes

An 1/8 " or thicker - 1 to 2 hours or more

These drying times will vary depending on air humidity and temperature. If it seems slow to dry, place a fan in the room to help circulate the air.

When modeling in O scale, Inclines and Risers need to be placed side-by-side to double their width.

The Track-Bed is a dark gray.

No, our coal does not contain metal or magnetic substances of any kind.

For a strong bond, rough-up the bottom of Track-Bed™ with 80-grit sandpaper and attach using the contact method, working in small, manageable sections.

Contact Method - Apply Foam Tack Glue™ to both surfaces, allow to set for approximately 20 minutes, but no longer than 1 hour, until tacky, then apply.

Click here to view a video on installing Track-Bed.

Cut out a section of Riser where the under table switches will be located. Use 1/4" piece of Foam Sheet, Masonite or plywood to bridge the gap. Notch each end of the Riser to accomodate thickness of material. Material should be level with Riser. Glue into place and mount the switch.

Lay out Track-Bed™ in one piece. Accommodate tight curves by separating the Track-Bed into two narrow strips along the slit that runs lengthwise. Lay the two pieces seperately, butting them snuggly in the middle. Do this by first drawing a center line for your track. Lay each half strip of Track-Bed on either side along this center line.

Click here to view a video on installing Track-Bed.

Ballast is placed along the railroad track to model actual ballast that holds track in place.

Talus is used to model rock debris under rock outcroppings, rocky hillsides or embankments.

Yes, Track-Bed is solvent resistant.

Track-Bed® absorbs the noise and vibration of train operations, so you can enjoy the true "clickety-clack" sound. Track-Bed costs less, does not require pre-soaking, and is easy to apply. It will not dry out, crack and crumble like cork. Since Track-Bed is compatible and aligns easily with cork, you can update your cork bed at any time.

Yes, our Track-Bed™ works great on any type layout with any kind of track of a standard width. For larger scales, consider using Track-Bed Sheets.

The "n" stands for narrow. On30 describes the modeling of narrow gauge railways, using O scale trains with narrow tracks that run on HO gauge track. For your On30, you can use SubTerrain Risers and Track-Bed.

We do not manufacture plastic screws and have never tested their usage. This is how we recommend you attach track to your Track-Bed.

We recommend using Foam Tack Glue. Sand surface of Track-Bed with 120-grit sandpaper, then spread a thin layer of glue over the Track-Bed surface and install track. Pin in place with Foam Nails while drying. 

Click here to view a video on installing Track-Bed.

You should have no problem adhering Ballast to your Track-Bed™ with this tested method.
1. Pour Ballast over track. Brush from rails and tops of ties.

2. Mist with Scenic Cement™ to wet the surface, and then saturate Ballast using an eyedropper or Scenic Sprayer™.

3. Clean rails before use.

Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.

We recommend Foam Tack Glue for attaching track.

Click here to view a demonstration of attaching track.

We have created grade crossing signals with Red Flashing LED Nano Lights. Run and glue the LED wire alongside the pole and crossing bar. Drill a hole through the bar and light fixture large enough for the Nano Light to fit through and super glue it in place. Camouflage the wire by painting it the same color as the pole and crossing bar.

There are many different types of grade crossing signals. We cannot guarantee this technique will work for your particular signal.

Click here to view a portion of a video demonstrating how to install Track-Bed along a curve.

Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

No, do not cut the Track-Bed with a Hot Wire Foam Cutter. This may emit toxic fumes.

We recommend using Scenic Cement™ rather than Scenic Glue™ because the Ballast will lay more evenly and be better secured. 

Apply Ballast onto track and brush from rails and top of ties. Mist adhesive over Ballast to wet the surface, and then saturate it for a strong bond using an eyedropper or the Scenic Sprayer™. Clean rails before use.

Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.

To remove Ballast from the track, soften the Scenic Cement™ with warm, soapy water. If the glue is hard to remove, use denatured alcohol.

Yes. Soften Foam Tack Glue with warm, soapy water. If the glue is difficult to remove, use denatured alcohol.

To remove Track-Bed™, soften the Foam Tack Glue™ with warm, soapy water. If the glue is hard to remove, use denature alcohol.

N scale Track-Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 4 feet of N scale Track-Bed

HO scale Track Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 2 feet of HO scale Track-Bed

O scale Track Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 1 foot of O scale Track-Bed

Super Sheets - 1 oz per Super Sheet. 1 bottle (12 fl oz) will do 12 Super Sheets.

NOTE: Coverage is approximate. Exact coverage depends on thickness of application.

Yes, but we recommend attaching the cork roadbed using the contact gluing method.  Apply Foam Tack Glue to the back of the cork roadbed and surface where it will be attached. Let the adhesive dry until clear (maximum working time, 1 hour). Press cork roadbed in place, glue will bond instantly.

Both adhesives work equally well. Foam Tack Glue is high tack white glue and works well as a contact cement. Low Temp Foam Glue bonds instantly and works well for a quicker installation.

Click here to learn about adhering SubTerrain.

Foam Tack Glue can be used to attach plywood, Risers and Inclines/Declines, and Track-Bed to pink extruded foam, but it must first be sanded with #120-grit sandpaper. This type of foam has a slick surface that needs to be roughed up so the glue has something to hold on to.

Use the contact gluing method to adhere materials to the extruded foam. Spread an even layer of Foam Tack Glue on both contact surfaces. Let the glue dry until clear (maximum working time is one hour) and then press surfaces together. The glue will bond instantly, creating a secure adhesion.

We suggest using the Rail Pal to clean the third rail.

Click here to see what to do when the tip is wearing out on Track Painters.

Yes, a portion of dried Realistic Water can be cut out, but it should be done with care.

Measure the area to be cut out, but make the cutout a bit smaller than the size measured. Using a hobby knife, make a clean cut into the Water. It is easier to cut out additional Realistic Water, than repair an area too large for the boat. Pry out the dried Realistic Water, slowly and carefully.

The Realistic Water is meant to stay flexible and pliable to discourage cracking. Therefore anything that is placed on the Realistic Water surface will leave a mark. Although, the Realistic Water is self-healing and the indentations may lift, the water surface will never be completely hard enough to place items on it without sticking. If indentations do not lift, pool denatured alcohol in the indentation and let it dry naturally. It may take a few applications for the indentation to self-level.

No, our coal does not contain metal or magnetic substances of any kind.

No. E-Z Water™ is poured hot, which would result in bubbling and cracking of the Realistic Water™. Realistic Water can be poured over E-Z Water, but it must be completely cured.

N SCALE
TWO-LANE CITY STREET - 1 15/16"
TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 1 1/2"
HIGHWAY LANE - 7/8" to 1 3/8"
SIDEWALK  - 1/4"

HO SCALE
TWO-LANE CITY STREET – 4 1/8”
TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 3 9/16"
HIGHWAY LANE - 1 5/8" to 2 1/2"
SIDEWALK - 1/2"

O SCALE
TWO-LANE CITY STREET – 6 1/2”
TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 5"
HIGHWAY LANE - 2 1/4" to 4 1/2"
SIDEWALK  - 1”

You can apply Water Undercoat, or 100% acrylic paint, on fully cured Realistic Water or Deep Pour Water and then pour another layer over it. 

We recommend using Deep Pour Water. Deep Pour Water can be poured up to ½ in (12.7 mm) deep in a single pour. If you want more depth, Deep Pour Water can also be layered without leaving transition lines after the previous pour has set up for 4 hours. You can also pour Realistic Water in layers in increments of 1/8 in (3.17 mm) after the previous layer is fully cured. E-Z Water™ is also good for deeper water areas. We recommend E-Z Water for small but deep areas, since it should be applied in one pour to avoid transition lines.

Our landscaping system is based on nature's principle of contrasts and highlights. Although many of our colors are close, slight variations occur from batch to batch. These variations help create more realistic scenery and blend easily with other existing colors.

Depending on your workspace’s humidity level and the depth of your Realistic Water®, it may take longer than 24 hours to completely dry. Never force the curing process by using heat. You can move the process along by placing the layout in an air-conditioned area with less humidity or using a fan in the room to circulate air.

When stored properly, plaster products have a very long (years) shelf life as long as they are stored in a way that keeps moisture away from the product.  Put any of our plasters (Hydrocal, Shaper Sheet Plaster, Carving Plaster,  Super Strength Plaster, or Mold-A-Scene) in a sealed plastic bag. Place the sealed bag in a tightly sealed, non-breakable container. This double seal will prevent moisture from interacting with the plaster.

Mix a tiny amount of fine, iridescent glitter with Snow Flake Snow™ until the desired look is achieved, keeping in mind that a little goes a long way. Spray an already modeled snow base with Scenic Cement™ and apply the mixture while glue is wet.

You can also mix glitter with Water Effects™ before modeling icicles.

Use dry pigments or dyes only. Add dye to pre-melted pellets or mix into melted pellets a small amount at a time. When adding dye to melted E-Z Water™, mix in dye very slowly to avoid bubbles.

Tunnel Portals can be installed at various times throughout the layout modeling process. We recommend installing them after Plaster Cloth or Shaper Sheet Shaper Sheet Plaster has been applied. 

Tunnel Portals can also be installed throughout the landscaping process, making it easy to add them to an existing layout. Cut into the terrrain (if additonal room is needed for the portal) and install per package instructions. 

The 24-hour dry time of Water Effects is a guideline only. Actual dry time depends on a number of factors. Very thick applications could take a couple of weeks to clear completely. Environmental conditions like heat and humidity could also extend dry time. To speed up dry time, place a fan in the room to circulate the air.

This method makes very realistic ice blocks. Adjust size accordingly.

1. Apply a square layer of Water Effects onto a non-stick surface, such as freezer paper or a non-stick pan. Let dry until clear.
2. Add additional layers as needed, letting each layer cure fully.
3. If necessary, trim with hobby knife after blocks are cured and clear.

We recommend sealing a water feature base with Plaster Cloth. Apply as instructed on the label, ensuring all holes in the Cloth are filled in before pouring Realistic Water. 

Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.

Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.

Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.

Realistic Water will not "attack" the foam, but if it is not prepared and sealed properly, it may release gases into the Realistic Water, causing bubbling and other issues. It is very important to cover an extruded foam base with a few layers of Plaster Cloth, being careful to fill all the holes. Then, paint the base with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment. If using another type of paint verify with the manufacturer that it is 100% acrylic. Let everything in your water area dry completely before pouring Realistic Water.

None of our water products are suitable for outdoor use.

Click here to view a demonstration on painting Timber.

Desert Sand ReadyGrass Vinyl Mats are made with a special, very fine blend of Talus.

The closest match is Fine Grade Talus in Buff.

To achieve the same fine consistency, place Talus in a plastic bag and seal. On a safe surface, tap Talus with a hammer until desired consistency is achieved.

Yes, the Water Effects turning white after use is normal.  It will become clear over time depending on how thick the Water Effects was applied.  It also helps to have air circulating in room your water feature is in.

Prepare your water areas as usual and pour Realistic Water. While it is still wet, lightly sprinkle Soft Flake Snow on top. This will create a glazed, frosted look to simulate a frozen, icy surface.

Click here to view a demonstraton of modeling frozen water.

Click here to view a video about the Ready Grass Water Kit, detailing how to make a body of water on Ready Grass.

This depends on what type of surface you want to adhere the foliage to. We have created three-dimensional trees by gluing foliage to foam board backgrounds. The Clump-Foliage™ must be broken into manageable size pieces (approximately the size of our Bushes). We use Foam Tack Glue™ to adhere the foliage, piece by piece. Dry flat and let the glue dry thoroughly.

Yes, but you must wait until the previous layer is fully cured before pouring the next layer. Cure times will start taking longer the more layers you add. 3/4 in will take weeks to achieve with Realistic Water. Therefore, we recommend using Deep Pour Water instead because it would be a much quicker process to achieve the 3/4 in depth.

The photo of the Single Track Timber Portal, shown on the website is a good example of a realistic Tunnel Portal. We used Burnt Umber for the main color and then applied a wash using a thin solution of Black. You could also use Stone Gray  as an accent.

Click here to view a demonstration on painting Portals, Retaining Walls and Culverts.

Water Effects is moldable, holds its shape and dries clear. To model moving water, apply on top of dried Realistic Water™ or E-Z Water with a paintbrush or craft stick.
To model a waterfall, squeeze onto freezer paper or non-stick pan in desired shape and length (add 1/2” to length for attaching to layout). Let dry until clear, then peel off surface carefully and attach using Water Effects as an adhesive. Dry time varies due to heat and humidity.

Click here to view a video on modeling waterfalls with Water Effects.

Click here to view a video on coloring rocks.

E-Z Water™ must be applied in one pour. If applying E-Z Water in multiple pours, transition lines are unavoidable.

We do not make 3.5 inch risers. To accomplish this, install our 2 ", 1 " and 1/2 " risers on top of one another to create that height. Each package contains 4 each and each piece is 2.5 " wide x 24 " long. The quantities to purchase will depend on the planned length of your track.

Click here to view a demonstraton of modeling snow drifts.

Top Coat Concrete is sand color and models a realistic, weathered-concrete look. Top Coat does not have an added texture.

For this application, we suggest using Shaper Sheet and Shaper Sheet Plaster. Shaper Sheet is a revolutionary material that can be shaped and reshaped to form terrain with any level of detail. When covered in Shaper Sheet Plaster, it becomes a very durable surface that will support heavy game play.

Cover Shaper Sheet Plaster in landscape materials to model a realistic gaming terrain.

To make road striping easy, we suggest using the Flexi Edge flexible road ruler and Road Striping Pens in White and Yellow. When applied onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, road striping mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover.

Click here to view a demonstration of road markings.

The best way to adhere Fruit is to spray Scenic Cement™ onto foliage, then let it set until tacky (nearly dry). Sprinkle on Fruit and overspray with a VERY fine mist of Scenic Cement. Do not get the fruit too wet or the color may run.

To adhere Flowers, spray Scenic Cement on landscape, sprinkle Flowers on wet adhesive and spray again to seal in place.

Click here to see how to apply fruits and flowers.

The ReadyGrass Mat was not designed to get wet. However, if the mat is prepped properly, it should be okay after a short sprint in a light rain. Spray the ReadyGrass Mat with a few light layers of Scenic Cement (S191), but do not saturate. Let each layer dry completely before applying the next. NOTE: This will make the ReadyGrass Mat a bit darker.

We have a variety of products that can be used to model flowers. As an idea, use Flowering Foliage, which is available in Yellow and Purple to model flowering fields, bushes, trees, etc.  Or, sprinkle Flowers (includes Red, Yellow, White and Orange) or Pollen (Yellow, Orange, Red, Purple, Pink) on Foliage, Poly Fiber, Field Grass or any of our turf products.

Click here to see a video on how to model flowers.

Yes, Earth Colors Liquid Pigments can be applied with an airbrush. Diluting the pigments is done primarily to adjust the shade of the color. Leave it full concentrate for the darkest color and add water to achieve lighter results.

You can use our Water Tint which is specially formulated to tint Deep Pour Water, Realistic Water and Surface Water. Or you can use Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment to tint Realistic Water™. Pour Realistic Water into a disposable cup and mix in coloring agent very slowly to avoid bubbles. If bubbles occur, cover and let set until they disperse (approximately 2 hours). It is advisable to do a small test area to verify desired color.

Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.

Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.

Woodland Scenics products are not designed to be exposed to the outdoor elements.

Only use Dust Dabber or canned air.

Click here to view a short video about the Dust Dabber.

An old toothbrush, warm soapy water and a bit of light scrubbing will take dried hydrocal right off.

Water Effects will remain pliable.  Anything set on top of it will stick to it and leave indentations.

Realistic Water and PVA glue are not compatible. Using the two together could cause the Realistic Water to act adversely, causing cracking and/or fogging.

We recommend using Scenic Glue (S190) to adhere items in a water area. It is also important to let everything dry completely before pouring Realistic Water.

The thickness of the vinyl mat alone is 7.5 mil.

The vinyl mat and the turf together are approximately 1/32" (0.03") or 0.8 mm thick.

Click here to view a video on modeling gravel/dirt roads.

Click here to learn how to lighten rock castings when the wash is too dark.

Rock Molds are made of a non-latex polymer.

Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.

Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.

We mainly use halogen lighting when we take product photos in our studio. Generally, the model is set-up and one halogen light represents the angle of the sun. One or more diffused lights are used to fill in the rest of the model. A three-point lighting technique, often used in filming video, works well to highlight foliage in the background.

You may be applying it too thick. Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers, letting each layer dry completely for approximately 30 minutes (dry time varies due to environmental conditions). When applied, Latex Rubber is opaque and off-white in color. It is pale yellow and slightly translucent when dry.

Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers. Dry time is approximately 30 minutes, but can vary due to environmental conditions. When first applied, it is opaque and off-white in color. Latex Rubber is dry when it has turned pale yellow and is slightly translucent. 

For durable, long-lasting molds, apply at least three coats of Latex Rubber, placing gauze strips between each layer. Clean paintbrush between coats with warm, soapy water. 

Before applying Latex Rubber to the item you want to make a casting of, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the object.

Before pouring plaster into the Latex Rubber mold, spray the mold with wet water (mix 1-2 drops liquid dish soap in 8 fl oz water).

The drying time of Flex Paste varies with thickness of application and environment. A thin layer will dry in approximately 30-40 minutes. Flex Paste should be applied no thicker than 1/16. Humid weather will extend the drying time. To speed up drying time, place a fan in the room

The mix ratio of Lightweight Hydrocal is 5 parts Hydrocal to 2 parts water (1 1/4 cups Hydrocal to 1/2 cup water).

Different issues can affect the setting and drying time of Lightweight Hydrocal®.

The amount of water used is critical. Use only the amount indicated in the instructions or the Hydrocal will take much longer to cure and set. If too much water is used, it may never set up completely.

It is very important to shake the carton of Lightweight Hydrocal upside down for 30 seconds to mix contents thoroughly before measuring.

Humidity is another factor. Higher humidity can extend dry time to as long as a few days. Placing a fan in the room to circulate air can speed up drying time.

Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.

You should not wash any Woodland Scenics plaster product down the drain. This includes Shaper Sheet Plaster, Carving Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster, Mold-A-Scene Plaster, and Smooth-It.

Plaster residue that remains after applying Plaster Cloth should also be discarded in the trash.

We suggest transferring the entire contents to a heavy-duty plastic trash bag. Ingredients can settle, so it's important to tumble in all directions to mix contents evenly.

Some natural shading should occur when painting your Lightweight Hydrocal surface with Liquid Pigments. However, if the surface is not absorbing pigment and remains white, those areas probably have been contaminated with glue or another substance.

Mix 295 mL of Lightweight Hydrocal with 118 mL of water.

We recommend using our Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment on Lightweight Hydrocal®* castings. You will want to be sure that there is no glue or other residue on the casting before applying the Pigments, because color may not adhere or may become blotchy.

*Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.

Another way you can apply Plaster Cloth is to lay managable sizes of dry Plaster Cloth strips on the project. Use a spray bottle to mist with water and use your fingers to smooth out the plaster filling in all the holes.

Click here to view how to paint Plaster Cloth surface with Earth Colors.

Click here to view a short video about Plaster Cloth.

We recommend using Scenic Cement™ rather than Scenic Glue™ because the Ballast will lay more evenly and be better secured. 

Apply Ballast onto track and brush from rails and top of ties. Mist adhesive over Ballast to wet the surface, and then saturate it for a strong bond using an eyedropper or the Scenic Sprayer™. Clean rails before use.

Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.

Scenic Cement works best when used with porous materials. Let dry approximately 30 minutes between applications.

Scenic Cement is ready to use. Diluting is not required.

Click here to view how to seal rock castings.

The drying time of Hob-e-Tac® varies due to environmental conditions and thickness of application. Typically, dry time is between 20-45 minutes. It is possible the 10 minutes of dry time was not sufficient. Hob-e-Tac must dry clear before foliage is applied or it will not stick. If it is still white, it is not dry.

Recommendation for making trees. Apply Hob-e-Tac to all branches. Avoid trunk area where foliage does not grow naturally. Wait for adhesive to become clear and tacky. Break Clump-Foliage into manageable size pieces and pinch firmly onto branches.

Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.

Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.

For inclines up to 30 degrees (maximum recommended degree), it will need to have a thicker consistency. Mix 2-1/2 parts Smooth-It to 1 part cold water.

Yes, you can use Smooth-It™ directly on Homosote. Prior to applying the Smooth-It, sand the surface with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Do not use shellack.

Yes, you can slow down the setting time of the Smooth-It™. This is accomplished by using cold water in the mixture.

Our landscaping system is based on nature's principle of contrasts and highlights. Although many of our colors are close, slight variations occur from batch to batch. These variations help create more realistic scenery and blend easily with other existing colors.

Woodland Classics - Deciduous: 8"-9" Cool Shade (TR3521) and Waters Edge (TR3539)

Woodland Classics - Conifer: 7"-8" Standing Timber

Ready Made Realistic Trees - Deciduous: 8"-9" Medium Green (TR1519)

Ready Made Realistic Trees - Conifer: 7"-8" Conifer Green (TR1563)

Attach trees to layout using Scenic Glue™ or Hob-e-Tac®. Poke a small hole, apply a drop of glue over hole and insert tree's base pin. Hold until setting begins. Add additional adhesive around the base of the tree for extra support. The optional base can also be used. Attach with Scenic Glue. 

This depends on what type of surface you want to adhere the foliage to. We have created three-dimensional trees by gluing foliage to foam board backgrounds. The Clump-Foliage™ must be broken into manageable size pieces (approximately the size of our Bushes). We use Foam Tack Glue™ to adhere the foliage, piece by piece. Dry flat and let the glue dry thoroughly.

We have a natural plant product called Forest Canopy and it is perfect for what you are attempting to model. It can be modified easily to a height of 1 inch and is available in four colors. One box covers approximately 2 square feet. 

Available Colors: Light Green, Medium Green, Dark Green and Autumn Mix

A 25.2 cu in (57.7 cu cm) bag of Bushes will make approximately 15 trees. The exact number of trees will depend on the amount of foliage used and the size of the Tree Armature. Smaller Armatures will net more trees and larger Armatures will net fewer.

Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.

We mainly use halogen lighting when we take product photos in our studio. Generally, the model is set-up and one halogen light represents the angle of the sun. One or more diffused lights are used to fill in the rest of the model. A three-point lighting technique, often used in filming video, works well to highlight foliage in the background.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.

Most of our AutoScenes® and Scenic Accents® are designed to fit into a 1940s - 1950s era.

HO scale (1:87) would be very close to 25mm.

No, our G scale Scenic Accents are scaled 1:22.

Always begin by washing the metal castings in warm, soapy water. Rinse well and let dry. This will remove any remaining mold release agent and allow the glue and paint to adhere better.

Glue Metal Castings with fast-setting epoxy or cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue).

When using super glue, a good bond depends on surface contact. Super glue is not filler-type glue. Use sparingly, too much glue will make a poor bond. Apply a tiny drop onto one of the parts being glued, then hold parts together for about 10 seconds. For larger Castings, hold parts together and apply a small drop of glue where parts meet. Capillary action allows the glue to seep into the contact area, creating a strong bond.

Allow glue to dry completely before moving to the next construction step.

If the metal castings were painted prior to assembly, be sure to scrape paint off glue points.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

Our Scenic Accents Glue should not be used outdoors. It is not UV stable. 

Most of our AutoScenes® and Scenic Accents® are designed to fit into a 1940s - 1950s era.

HO scale (1:87) would be very close to 25mm.

The rated output for the Power Supply is 1000 milliamps (mA). To determine the total number of Just Plug LED Lights the Power Supply can support, add up the milliamps of each LED Light being used. The milliamps are listed on the light packages. Total number of milliamps should not exceed 1000mA per Power Supply. If 1000mA is exceeded, the Power Supply's non-replaceable thermal fuse will be overloaded.

Always begin by washing the metal castings in warm, soapy water. Rinse well and let dry. This will remove any remaining mold release agent and allow the glue and paint to adhere better.

Glue Metal Castings with fast-setting epoxy or cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue).

When using super glue, a good bond depends on surface contact. Super glue is not filler-type glue. Use sparingly, too much glue will make a poor bond. Apply a tiny drop onto one of the parts being glued, then hold parts together for about 10 seconds. For larger Castings, hold parts together and apply a small drop of glue where parts meet. Capillary action allows the glue to seep into the contact area, creating a strong bond.

Allow glue to dry completely before moving to the next construction step.

If the metal castings were painted prior to assembly, be sure to scrape paint off glue points.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

Prior to adhering building pieces together, always wash pieces with warm soapy water to remove any residue. If they still do not adhere, try using a more aggressive plastic cement. Test plastic cement on the back of a building piece. Put a few drops of plastic cement, wait 5-10 seconds, touch with finger, if not sticky and gooey there may be a problem with the cement.

Use the Just Plug Light Block Kit. Apply Masking Paint to interior walls to keep the building from glowing. Press the included Ribbon Putty into interior corners, joints, and along the bottom edges of structures to seal the seams.

Click here to see a video on using the Light Block Kit to prevent glow.

Poly S™ Easy-Lift-Off will remove paint without harming plastic. It is kind of a slow process but it works.

*Poly S is a Testor Corporation trademark 

All paints used are Floquil®*.

Corner Turret Building

Brick - mix the following and apply with an airbrush:
- SP Daylight Orange
- ATSF Mineral Brown
Molding - (brush on) CN Gray

Roof of turret - Stainless Steel poly
Apply morter wash mixture over brick area as follows:
1 part - concrete, polly
9 parts - alcohol
7 parts - water
2 drops - dish soap


Reed Books
Brick - Depot Buff...apply with an airbrush
Molding - (brush on) CN Gray
Apply morter wash mixture (see above)

Eriks Emporium
Brick - use morter wash
Molding - Depot Buff
Over windows and below - Concrete

All three buildings have following also:
Roofs - Grimmy Black
Aging - use black and brown oil chalks

*Floquil is a Testors Corporation registered trademark.

The rated output for the Power Supply is 1000 milliamps (mA). To determine the total number of Just Plug LED Lights the Power Supply can support, add up the milliamps of each LED Light being used. The milliamps are listed on the light packages. Total number of milliamps should not exceed 1000mA per Power Supply. If 1000mA is exceeded, the Power Supply's non-replaceable thermal fuse will be overloaded.

Click here to view a video about the Auxiliary Switch and port control.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

Yes, you can.

The rated output for the Power Supply is 1000 milliamps (mA). To determine the total number of Just Plug LED Lights the Power Supply can support, add up the milliamps of each LED Light being used. The milliamps are listed on the light packages. Total number of milliamps should not exceed 1000mA per Power Supply. If 1000mA is exceeded, the Power Supply's non-replaceable thermal fuse will be overloaded.

We have created grade crossing signals with Red Flashing LED Nano Lights. Run and glue the LED wire alongside the pole and crossing bar. Drill a hole through the bar and light fixture large enough for the Nano Light to fit through and super glue it in place. Camouflage the wire by painting it the same color as the pole and crossing bar.

There are many different types of grade crossing signals. We cannot guarantee this technique will work for your particular signal.

Click here to view a video about the Auxiliary Switch and port control.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

Always begin by washing the metal castings in warm, soapy water. Rinse well and let dry. This will remove any remaining mold release agent and allow the glue and paint to adhere better.

Glue Metal Castings with fast-setting epoxy or cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue).

When using super glue, a good bond depends on surface contact. Super glue is not filler-type glue. Use sparingly, too much glue will make a poor bond. Apply a tiny drop onto one of the parts being glued, then hold parts together for about 10 seconds. For larger Castings, hold parts together and apply a small drop of glue where parts meet. Capillary action allows the glue to seep into the contact area, creating a strong bond.

Allow glue to dry completely before moving to the next construction step.

If the metal castings were painted prior to assembly, be sure to scrape paint off glue points.

The best method we have found for removing dry transfer decals is to press a piece of clear tape onto the decal, rub with a burnisher or dull pencil, and then peel off the tape. The Dry Transfer should come off fairly easily, but it may take a couple of applications to remove it all.
If there are spots of decal remaining, soak a cotton swab in denatured or isopropyl alcohol and rub over the decal. The remainder will come off easily.

We recommend using a brush-on, water-based clear gloss.

To make road striping easy, we suggest using the Flexi Edge flexible road ruler and Road Striping Pens in White and Yellow. When applied onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, road striping mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover.

Click here to view a demonstration of road markings.

Use Ultra-Lite Oil for locomotive bushings and other moving parts on locomotives and rolling stock, with the exception of gears. Lubricate gears with a grease like White Grease.

Our Scenic Accents Glue should not be used outdoors. It is not UV stable. 

You may be applying it too thick. Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers, letting each layer dry completely for approximately 30 minutes (dry time varies due to environmental conditions). When applied, Latex Rubber is opaque and off-white in color. It is pale yellow and slightly translucent when dry.

Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers. Dry time is approximately 30 minutes, but can vary due to environmental conditions. When first applied, it is opaque and off-white in color. Latex Rubber is dry when it has turned pale yellow and is slightly translucent. 

For durable, long-lasting molds, apply at least three coats of Latex Rubber, placing gauze strips between each layer. Clean paintbrush between coats with warm, soapy water. 

Before applying Latex Rubber to the item you want to make a casting of, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the object.

Before pouring plaster into the Latex Rubber mold, spray the mold with wet water (mix 1-2 drops liquid dish soap in 8 fl oz water).

The drying time of Flex Paste varies with thickness of application and environment. A thin layer will dry in approximately 30-40 minutes. Flex Paste should be applied no thicker than 1/16. Humid weather will extend the drying time. To speed up drying time, place a fan in the room

No, do not cut the Track-Bed with a Hot Wire Foam Cutter. This may emit toxic fumes.

We recommend using the Hot Wire Foam Cutter with Risers, Inclines/Declines, Profile Boards, Foam Sheets, Modeling Sheets, Road Riser, and Support Panels.

Using the Hot Wire Foam Cutter on products other than what is listed is not recommend. Toxic fumes may be omitted.

The opening width, or length of the wire from prong to prong is 4 1/2" (11.4 cm) wide. The depth from the prong down to the handle, is 6" (15.2 cm). When using the optional straight rod, the tool cuts a path 3 1/2" w x 6" d (8.89 cm x 15.2 cm). Use this option to cut in tight places and for faster cuts.

Click here to view a video about the Hot Wire Foam Cutter.

The mix ratio of Lightweight Hydrocal is 5 parts Hydrocal to 2 parts water (1 1/4 cups Hydrocal to 1/2 cup water).

Different issues can affect the setting and drying time of Lightweight Hydrocal®.

The amount of water used is critical. Use only the amount indicated in the instructions or the Hydrocal will take much longer to cure and set. If too much water is used, it may never set up completely.

It is very important to shake the carton of Lightweight Hydrocal upside down for 30 seconds to mix contents thoroughly before measuring.

Humidity is another factor. Higher humidity can extend dry time to as long as a few days. Placing a fan in the room to circulate air can speed up drying time.

Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.

You should not wash any Woodland Scenics plaster product down the drain. This includes Shaper Sheet Plaster, Carving Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster, Mold-A-Scene Plaster, and Smooth-It.

Plaster residue that remains after applying Plaster Cloth should also be discarded in the trash.

We suggest transferring the entire contents to a heavy-duty plastic trash bag. Ingredients can settle, so it's important to tumble in all directions to mix contents evenly.

Some natural shading should occur when painting your Lightweight Hydrocal surface with Liquid Pigments. However, if the surface is not absorbing pigment and remains white, those areas probably have been contaminated with glue or another substance.

Mix 295 mL of Lightweight Hydrocal with 118 mL of water.

We recommend using our Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment on Lightweight Hydrocal®* castings. You will want to be sure that there is no glue or other residue on the casting before applying the Pigments, because color may not adhere or may become blotchy.

*Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.

Another way you can apply Plaster Cloth is to lay managable sizes of dry Plaster Cloth strips on the project. Use a spray bottle to mist with water and use your fingers to smooth out the plaster filling in all the holes.

Click here to view how to paint Plaster Cloth surface with Earth Colors.

Click here to view a short video about Plaster Cloth.

We recommend using Scenic Cement™ rather than Scenic Glue™ because the Ballast will lay more evenly and be better secured. 

Apply Ballast onto track and brush from rails and top of ties. Mist adhesive over Ballast to wet the surface, and then saturate it for a strong bond using an eyedropper or the Scenic Sprayer™. Clean rails before use.

Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.

To remove Ballast from the track, soften the Scenic Cement™ with warm, soapy water. If the glue is hard to remove, use denatured alcohol.

Scenic Cement works best when used with porous materials. Let dry approximately 30 minutes between applications.

Scenic Cement is ready to use. Diluting is not required.

Click here to view how to seal rock castings.

The drying time of Hob-e-Tac® varies due to environmental conditions and thickness of application. Typically, dry time is between 20-45 minutes. It is possible the 10 minutes of dry time was not sufficient. Hob-e-Tac must dry clear before foliage is applied or it will not stick. If it is still white, it is not dry.

Recommendation for making trees. Apply Hob-e-Tac to all branches. Avoid trunk area where foliage does not grow naturally. Wait for adhesive to become clear and tacky. Break Clump-Foliage into manageable size pieces and pinch firmly onto branches.

Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.

Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.

No. The Hot Wire Foam Cutter is designed to use the Replacement Wire. The special nichrome wire retains an even temperature, which is necessary for consistent cutting of our foam products.

Yes. Soften Foam Tack Glue with warm, soapy water. If the glue is difficult to remove, use denatured alcohol.

To remove Track-Bed™, soften the Foam Tack Glue™ with warm, soapy water. If the glue is hard to remove, use denature alcohol.

N scale Track-Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 4 feet of N scale Track-Bed

HO scale Track Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 2 feet of HO scale Track-Bed

O scale Track Bed - 1/3 oz of Foam Tack Glue covers approximately 1 foot of O scale Track-Bed

Super Sheets - 1 oz per Super Sheet. 1 bottle (12 fl oz) will do 12 Super Sheets.

NOTE: Coverage is approximate. Exact coverage depends on thickness of application.

Yes, but we recommend attaching the cork roadbed using the contact gluing method.  Apply Foam Tack Glue to the back of the cork roadbed and surface where it will be attached. Let the adhesive dry until clear (maximum working time, 1 hour). Press cork roadbed in place, glue will bond instantly.

Both adhesives work equally well. Foam Tack Glue is high tack white glue and works well as a contact cement. Low Temp Foam Glue bonds instantly and works well for a quicker installation.

Click here to learn about adhering SubTerrain.

Foam Tack Glue can be used to attach plywood, Risers and Inclines/Declines, and Track-Bed to pink extruded foam, but it must first be sanded with #120-grit sandpaper. This type of foam has a slick surface that needs to be roughed up so the glue has something to hold on to.

Use the contact gluing method to adhere materials to the extruded foam. Spread an even layer of Foam Tack Glue on both contact surfaces. Let the glue dry until clear (maximum working time is one hour) and then press surfaces together. The glue will bond instantly, creating a secure adhesion.

Yes, Foam Putty can be painted. The dried surface of Foam Putty is gritty. For a smooth surface, sand dried Putty with a very fine grade sandpaper (220-400 grit) before painting. Apply two coats of paint, sanding lightly between coats.

Foam Putty™ has a 2 1/2-year shelf life and cannot be reconstituted. You can determine the manufacture date of a particular container by looking at the code on the lid. The first number denotes the year (8 = 2008) The next three numbers denote the day of the year (085 is the 85th day of the year = March 25) The expiration date for this code is March 25, 2010.

Here are some drying time guidelines:

Very thin layer - 20 minutes

An 1/8 " or thicker - 1 to 2 hours or more

These drying times will vary depending on air humidity and temperature. If it seems slow to dry, place a fan in the room to help circulate the air.

For inclines up to 30 degrees (maximum recommended degree), it will need to have a thicker consistency. Mix 2-1/2 parts Smooth-It to 1 part cold water.

Yes, you can use Smooth-It™ directly on Homosote. Prior to applying the Smooth-It, sand the surface with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Do not use shellack.

Yes, you can slow down the setting time of the Smooth-It™. This is accomplished by using cold water in the mixture.

We do not manufacture plastic screws and have never tested their usage. This is how we recommend you attach track to your Track-Bed.

We recommend using Foam Tack Glue. Sand surface of Track-Bed with 120-grit sandpaper, then spread a thin layer of glue over the Track-Bed surface and install track. Pin in place with Foam Nails while drying. 

Click here to view a video on installing Track-Bed.

The rated output for the Power Supply is 1000 milliamps (mA). To determine the total number of Just Plug LED Lights the Power Supply can support, add up the milliamps of each LED Light being used. The milliamps are listed on the light packages. Total number of milliamps should not exceed 1000mA per Power Supply. If 1000mA is exceeded, the Power Supply's non-replaceable thermal fuse will be overloaded.

We have created grade crossing signals with Red Flashing LED Nano Lights. Run and glue the LED wire alongside the pole and crossing bar. Drill a hole through the bar and light fixture large enough for the Nano Light to fit through and super glue it in place. Camouflage the wire by painting it the same color as the pole and crossing bar.

There are many different types of grade crossing signals. We cannot guarantee this technique will work for your particular signal.

Click here to view a video about the Auxiliary Switch and port control.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

Yes, you can.

We do not manufacture plastic screws and have never tested their usage. This is how we recommend you attach track to your Track-Bed.

We recommend using Foam Tack Glue. Sand surface of Track-Bed with 120-grit sandpaper, then spread a thin layer of glue over the Track-Bed surface and install track. Pin in place with Foam Nails while drying. 

Click here to view a video on installing Track-Bed.

The rated output for the Power Supply is 1000 milliamps (mA). To determine the total number of Just Plug LED Lights the Power Supply can support, add up the milliamps of each LED Light being used. The milliamps are listed on the light packages. Total number of milliamps should not exceed 1000mA per Power Supply. If 1000mA is exceeded, the Power Supply's non-replaceable thermal fuse will be overloaded.

We have created grade crossing signals with Red Flashing LED Nano Lights. Run and glue the LED wire alongside the pole and crossing bar. Drill a hole through the bar and light fixture large enough for the Nano Light to fit through and super glue it in place. Camouflage the wire by painting it the same color as the pole and crossing bar.

There are many different types of grade crossing signals. We cannot guarantee this technique will work for your particular signal.

Click here to view a video about the Auxiliary Switch and port control.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

Yes, you can.

We do not manufacture plastic screws and have never tested their usage. This is how we recommend you attach track to your Track-Bed.

We recommend using Foam Tack Glue. Sand surface of Track-Bed with 120-grit sandpaper, then spread a thin layer of glue over the Track-Bed surface and install track. Pin in place with Foam Nails while drying. 

Click here to view a video on installing Track-Bed.

The rated output for the Power Supply is 1000 milliamps (mA). To determine the total number of Just Plug LED Lights the Power Supply can support, add up the milliamps of each LED Light being used. The milliamps are listed on the light packages. Total number of milliamps should not exceed 1000mA per Power Supply. If 1000mA is exceeded, the Power Supply's non-replaceable thermal fuse will be overloaded.

We have created grade crossing signals with Red Flashing LED Nano Lights. Run and glue the LED wire alongside the pole and crossing bar. Drill a hole through the bar and light fixture large enough for the Nano Light to fit through and super glue it in place. Camouflage the wire by painting it the same color as the pole and crossing bar.

There are many different types of grade crossing signals. We cannot guarantee this technique will work for your particular signal.

Click here to view a video about the Auxiliary Switch and port control.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220

Yes, you can.

Model Scales

G = 1:24

O = 1:48

S = 1:64

OO = 1:76.2

HO = 1:87

N = 1:160

Z = 1:220