Easily capture the movement of a rushing river or the calm surface of a murky lake by using the Water System from Woodland Scenics. This complete system has been specially designed to model all bodies of water and their features. Read an excerpt on Water from The Complete Guide to Model Scenery to learn more.
Yes, a portion of dried Realistic Water can be cut out, but it should be done with care.
Measure the area to be cut out, but make the cutout a bit smaller than the size measured. Using a hobby knife, make a clean cut into the Water. It is easier to cut out additional Realistic Water, than repair an area too large for the boat. Pry out the dried Realistic Water, slowly and carefully.
The Realistic Water is meant to stay flexible and pliable to discourage cracking. Therefore anything that is placed on the Realistic Water surface will leave a mark. Although, the Realistic Water is self-healing and the indentations may lift, the water surface will never be completely hard enough to place items on it without sticking. If indentations do not lift, pool denatured alcohol in the indentation and let it dry naturally. It may take a few applications for the indentation to self-level.
No. E-Z Water™ is poured hot, which would result in bubbling and cracking of the Realistic Water™. Realistic Water can be poured over E-Z Water, but it must be completely cured.
You can apply Water Undercoat, or 100% acrylic paint, on fully cured Realistic Water or Deep Pour Water and then pour another layer over it.
We recommend using Deep Pour Water. Deep Pour Water can be poured up to ½ in (12.7 mm) deep in a single pour. If you want more depth, Deep Pour Water can also be layered without leaving transition lines after the previous pour has set up for 4 hours. You can also pour Realistic Water in layers in increments of 1/8 in (3.17 mm) after the previous layer is fully cured. E-Z Water™ is also good for deeper water areas. We recommend E-Z Water for small but deep areas, since it should be applied in one pour to avoid transition lines.
Depending on your workspace’s humidity level and the depth of your Realistic Water®, it may take longer than 24 hours to completely dry. Never force the curing process by using heat. You can move the process along by placing the layout in an air-conditioned area with less humidity or using a fan in the room to circulate air.
Use dry pigments or dyes only. Add dye to pre-melted pellets or mix into melted pellets a small amount at a time. When adding dye to melted E-Z Water™, mix in dye very slowly to avoid bubbles.
We recommend sealing a water feature base with Plaster Cloth. Apply as instructed on the label, ensuring all holes in the Cloth are filled in before pouring Realistic Water.
Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.
Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
Realistic Water will not "attack" the foam, but if it is not prepared and sealed properly, it may release gases into the Realistic Water, causing bubbling and other issues. It is very important to cover an extruded foam base with a few layers of Plaster Cloth, being careful to fill all the holes. Then, paint the base with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment. If using another type of paint verify with the manufacturer that it is 100% acrylic. Let everything in your water area dry completely before pouring Realistic Water.
None of our water products are suitable for outdoor use.
Yes, the Water Effects turning white after use is normal. It will become clear over time depending on how thick the Water Effects was applied. It also helps to have air circulating in room your water feature is in.
Prepare your water areas as usual and pour Realistic Water. While it is still wet, lightly sprinkle Soft Flake Snow on top. This will create a glazed, frosted look to simulate a frozen, icy surface.
Click here to view a demonstraton of modeling frozen water.
Click here to view a video about the Ready Grass Water Kit, detailing how to make a body of water on Ready Grass.
Yes, but you must wait until the previous layer is fully cured before pouring the next layer. Cure times will start taking longer the more layers you add. 3/4 in will take weeks to achieve with Realistic Water. Therefore, we recommend using Deep Pour Water instead because it would be a much quicker process to achieve the 3/4 in depth.
E-Z Water™ must be applied in one pour. If applying E-Z Water in multiple pours, transition lines are unavoidable.
You can use our Water Tint which is specially formulated to tint Deep Pour Water, Realistic Water and Surface Water. Or you can use Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment to tint Realistic Water™. Pour Realistic Water into a disposable cup and mix in coloring agent very slowly to avoid bubbles. If bubbles occur, cover and let set until they disperse (approximately 2 hours). It is advisable to do a small test area to verify desired color.
Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.
Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
Only use Dust Dabber or canned air.
Click here to view a short video about the Dust Dabber.
Realistic Water and PVA glue are not compatible. Using the two together could cause the Realistic Water to act adversely, causing cracking and/or fogging.
We recommend using Scenic Glue (S190) to adhere items in a water area. It is also important to let everything dry completely before pouring Realistic Water.
Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.
Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
You can use our Water Tint which is specially formulated to tint Deep Pour Water, Realistic Water and Surface Water. Or you can use Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment to tint Realistic Water™. Pour Realistic Water into a disposable cup and mix in coloring agent very slowly to avoid bubbles. If bubbles occur, cover and let set until they disperse (approximately 2 hours). It is advisable to do a small test area to verify desired color.
Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.
Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
You can apply Water Undercoat, or 100% acrylic paint, on fully cured Realistic Water or Deep Pour Water and then pour another layer over it.
Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.
Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
The 24-hour dry time of Water Effects is a guideline only. Actual dry time depends on a number of factors. Very thick applications could take a couple of weeks to clear completely. Environmental conditions like heat and humidity could also extend dry time. To speed up dry time, place a fan in the room to circulate the air.
This method makes very realistic ice blocks. Adjust size accordingly.
1. Apply a square layer of Water Effects onto a non-stick surface, such as freezer paper or a non-stick pan. Let dry until clear.
2. Add additional layers as needed, letting each layer cure fully.
3. If necessary, trim with hobby knife after blocks are cured and clear.
Yes, the Water Effects turning white after use is normal. It will become clear over time depending on how thick the Water Effects was applied. It also helps to have air circulating in room your water feature is in.
Water Effects is moldable, holds its shape and dries clear. To model moving water, apply on top of dried Realistic Water™ or E-Z Water with a paintbrush or craft stick.
To model a waterfall, squeeze onto freezer paper or non-stick pan in desired shape and length (add 1/2” to length for attaching to layout). Let dry until clear, then peel off surface carefully and attach using Water Effects as an adhesive. Dry time varies due to heat and humidity.
Click here to view a video on modeling waterfalls with Water Effects.
Water Effects will remain pliable. Anything set on top of it will stick to it and leave indentations.
Only use Dust Dabber or canned air.
Click here to view a short video about the Dust Dabber.