The main problem here is not that it will 'attack the foam,' but that extruded foam contains gases that will release into your water product if not prepped and sealed correctly. It is very important that a base like this is first coated well with a few layers of plaster cloth, being careful that all holes in the cloth are filled with plaster. To be sure all areas are sealed well, and not touching the foam, use a layer of our Flex Paste on top of everything to seal it well. After that, paint this base with an acrylic paint to depict water depth.
An easy way to do this is to sculpt the swells onto the base of the diorama using small strips of plaster cloth or other modeling material. This allows greater freedom to apply more detail with a lot less effort than trying to do it all with water product. Paint with shades of blue and white. Brush on Realistic Water, allow it to cure and reapply. This may take several coats. You can then layer on the Water Effects. Allow each layer to cure before applying the next. This is very effective for creating a rough water scene and you still get the illusion of depth because of the layering. You can use fiber from cotton balls to create crashing waves by dipping pieces into water effects and applying to the scene. Once this cures, brush on more water effects to augment the crashing waves. Also, small pieces of cellophane wrap can be crunched up and applied with Water Effects to create waves and other rough water. Once this is applied, brush on Realistic Water to create the detail.
NOTE: Remember to never apply Realistic Water on top of Water Effects! As it will take a very long time to cure.
Choose any clear piece of plastic like styrene or acetate to use as the dam. Make sure the area where the dam will be affixed is clean and flat. Glue the clear plastic to the fascia. (Double stick tape works well) Make the plastic higher than the anticipated level of the water feature, and pour the Realistic Water. Once the water height has been achieved and the Realistic Water has cured, carefully cut the plastic to the level of the water and leave in place.
The Realistic Water is meant to stay flexible and pliable to discourage cracking. Therefore anything that is placed on the Realistic Water surface will leave a mark. Although, the Realistic Water is self-healing and the indentations may lift, the water surface will never be completely hard enough to place items on it without sticking. If indentations will not lift, denatured alcohol can be sprayed on the surface and left to cure again. Make sure the alcohol does NOT come in contact with anything else or it may be contaminated and ruin the water surface sheen.
To remove EZ water from a layout, first try to pry it up along the edges with a knife. If this does not work, try using a heat gun to soften the water. Then try to pry it up again. It should pop up in one piece...but keep in mind that it may damage your base. Removing Realistic Water is much easier. Mist it with denatured alcohol and this will soften it up and then you can pry it up.
You will experience some shrinkage of the water product, especially on the very first pour. It will be dependent on many different factors as to how much shrinkage occurs. Keep in mind that on consecutive pours there will be less shrinkage.
Our water products should not be used for outdoor application as they are not designed and formulated to be exposed to the elements. A well covered patio would be OK. A two-part epoxy (found at any hobby or hardware store) would be a better choice for an outdoor feature.
More than likely this issue is occurring because of the PVA glue that you used to glue the sand to the pool bottom may have caused the cloudiness and shrinkage. Granted with our products there will be some shrinkage (but more so will happen shortly after, not a month later). It is recommended that you use our Scenic Cement (S191) or Scenic Glue (S190) to adhere anything under our water products. All that we can recommend is to wait and hopefully it will clear up. If that does not work, you may need to take out the water and remove the material with the PVA glue VERY WELL, completely re-seal it, then re-pour the water.
Realistic Water - You will want to first try a lint free damp towel to remove any dust. If this does not do adequate cleaning, mist with denatured alcohol. This will soften up the water and revitalize it.
EZ Water - Again, try using a lint free damp towel to remove dust. For better cleaning, or to remove particles, you can reheat the water with a heat tool (RG5162), keeping in mind that a hair dryer will not get hot enough.
UV acrylic sheet would work well. It can easily be distressed by sanding, cutting, scraping, etc, to give the look of real ice. Also, Smooth-On is a rubber / plastic product that works very well. www.smooth-on.com
After pouring all of your water area, you can minimize any transition lines by using a heat gun on a LOW setting to help blend those areas together.
Polyurethane paint is very sensitive to heat. Therefore it more than likely burned and bubbled when the EZ water was poured over it. We recommend using a water based paint product, such as our Liquid Pigments.
Our "New and Improved" formula of Realistic Water can be poured at more than 1/8 inch layers, but it will take some time to cure...especially if you are in a humid, wet climate. When using the Realistic Water, it is best to build the area up, so only TWO 1/8" pours are needed. Or you can use the EZ Water pellets on the bottom and then when that is COMPLETELY cured, you can pour Realistic Water over it. Do NOT do it the other way around with the EZ water on top, or you will have issues. Also, do not put Realistic Water and EZ water products next to one another because you will see a distinguished line.
You can use one, or a combination of two methods.
1. Paint the water area before adding E-Z Water, but make sure painted surface is completely dry before adding E-Z Water.
2. Color the E-Z Water itself with Rit Dye using a dilution rate of 1/16th teaspoon dye to one bag E-Z Water. Mix the dye with the E-Z Water pellets before they start to melt.
Prepare your water areas as usual and pour Realistic Water. While it is still wet, lightly sprinkle Soft Flake Snow on top. This will create a glazed, frosted look to simulate a frozen, icy surface.
We recommend using our Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or other type of water-soluble paint, food coloring or dye. Pour Realistic Water slowly into a disposable cup and add the color. Mix gently to lessen the bubbles in the water. To be sure a color is what you are looking for, it is best to test the color 24 hours prior to the actual application. Use Paint or Earth colors for an opaque effect or use food coloring for a transparent effect.
No, we recommend not sealing the Realistic Water. Realistic Water is designed to stay flexible and pliable, and an imprint will form from something set on cured Realistic Water. To be on the safe side, be careful to avoid touching the surface.
Shrinking is a natural occurrence in the curing process, but Realistic Water does not crack. Cracks can sometimes develop in the painted surface of the base material onto which the Realistic Water was poured. When painting your base, it is important to make sure the paint is completely dry prior to adding Realistic Water. In addition, to ensure the paint’s solid adherence to a plastic base, it may be necessary to lightly sand prior to painting, and between multiple coats.
The sky is the limit!
It is best to sculpt and shape Water Effects within 15-20 minutes. Longer than 20 minutes may cause Water Effects to "skin over" and become difficult to work with.
Yes, our water products are compatible. However, E-Z Water must be poured first and allowed to completely set before adding Water Effects or Realistic Water.
Depending on your workspace’s humidity level and the depth of your Realistic Water, it may take longer than 24 hours to completely dry. Never force the curing process by using heat. The process can be moved along by placing the layout in an airconditioned area with less humidity or by putting a fan in the room to circulate air.
Yes. It can be thinned with a solution of 75 percent Realistic Water and 25 percent distilled water.
Depending on how thickly it is applied, an 8-ounce bottle of Water Effects will cover 7 to 14 square inches.
It is important to be sure there are no holes where the water could seep through. Sealing the base with our Plaster Cloth or Flex Paste is recommended. Then paint the area well with an acrylic type paint, using colors to depict depth, such as a dark bluish-gray. Water curing time will vary depending on the area temperature and humidity.
Silicone products usually contain gases. Therefore when the Realistic Water is poured over the silicone sealant the possibility of bubbling may occur. We recommend that the base be sealed with a latex paint which will give it color and depth.
NOTE: It is very important that the area is sealed well so that the Realistic Water does not seep into pin holes, cracks or crevices. Bubbling of the water can also occur if the area is not sealed well.
First of all, bubbling is usually caused if the area the Realistic Water (C1211) was poured on was not sealed properly. Gases from the base material escape into the water and produce bubbles.
To help remove bubbles, try applying denatured alcohol to the water feature and let it soak to saturate into the cured Water. Use a pin to 'pop' the bubbles, which will allow the denatured alcohol to seep into the holes and smooth it out. This will usually take care of most of the bubbles once the denatured alcohol evaporates out. Several applications may have to be made to get good results.
Vinyl Mat
