Unfortunately it is not possible to purchase just certain parts of a kit. But we do have the DPM Module System that allows you to purchase separate walls. See the following link on our Web site: http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/items.cfm/HOModularSystem?ShowAll=1 Also, we have the DPM Roof and Trim Kit (#301-90) that can be purchased separately.
Yes, this can be done.
If an actual roof is not in your building kit, a styrene sheet will be included. This is our preferred model building roof material.
Instructions are included in the kits but here are the basics: Glue entire walls together at corners to form three-dimensional building. Make sure corners are square. When glue is thoroughly dry, turn building upside down on cardboard (to serve as a pattern) or directly on styrene plastic roof sheets. Trace each roof opening along inside of walls. Save tracings for cutting roof pieces later. If roof opening cannot be traced, measure and draw measurements on cardboard or plastic roof sheet. A parapet wall is the part of a building wall that extends above the roof. Brick parapet wall trim strips from the DPM Roof & Trim Kit detail inside tops of buildings, serve as roof supports, and make installation of the roof easier. Alternatively, .040 inch square styrene plastic cut into strips 3/8 inch wide could be substituted for the brick parapet wall trim strips. Cut brick parapet wall trim strips to fit around inside top of building and lightly sand the cut ends without rounding. Glue in place flush with top edge. Fill voids at top of wall sections with Spackle or plastic putty such as Testor's.....
The Roof and Trim Kit includes roof material (qty 2 styrene plastic sheet 6" x 8.5" each), brick parapet wall trim strips, and inside corner strips for building of your design plus assorted roof vents and hatches suitable for all buildings. These items are also in Designer Bulk Packs. IF cardboard roof patterns were made, cut out and fit in place under brick parapet wall strips. Adjust size if needed and trace pattern to roof material. Cut out all roof pieces, test fit and adjust if needed. Do not glue. For a larger roof, join two pieces or roof material. Cut scrap styrene about 1/4 inch wide and length of joint. Glue to both roof pieces along joint on underside of roof. Paint roof flat black. Glue roof to bottom of brick parapet wall trim strips, flexing very slightly and pushing gently into place from bottom of building.
Using HO scale buildings for O scale layouts is not an uncommon practice. It falls under the category of forced prospective and helps create the illusion of depth and distance in a small area. So it is not a "crazy" idea.
Poly S. Easy Lift Off will remove decals and paint without harming plastic. It is kind of a slow process but it works.
This can be ordered on www.walthers.com or some hobby shops.
If you plan to light your building for night scenes, paint the inside walls flat black before assembly. It prevents the walls from "glowing" when the interior light source is turned on. Only the windows are illuminated, and it looks very realistic.
Sanding
Gluing
Painting
After painting your structure, you can add windows – a great detailing piece. Just look around your world and see these kinds of details you can replicate:
Shades and curtains - Use pieces of masking tape, custom colored to match your décor. To make realistic shades, set your masking tape at differing heights in the window for a lived-in look. To make older shades, set them at an angle, or rip the tape to make them look worn. For curtains, cut strips of masking tape and tape them onto the inside of the windows in different configurations.
Frost - Before inserting your window, sand it lightly with 320 grit sandpaper on the outer edges. Install the window as usual.
Newspaper print - Many times older buildings have plastered their windows with old newspapers. You can reproduce that look using small copy from any newspaper. Reduce the copy on a copier until it matches your scale. Give your newsprint an aged look by soaking it in tea or coffee for a short time.
Bullet holes and cracks - Use a small brad or a Woodland Scenics Foam Nail to push a small hole into an already installed window. If your windows are acetate, the pin will cause a small bruise around the hole, which gives a very realistic appearance. Use the Foam Nail to scratch or etch cracks in the windows. Use a hobby knife to create broken windowpanes.
Boarded up windows - Use very thin strips of painted styrene, or strips of scale balsa wood to give the windows a boarded up look. You can also use matchsticks, craft sticks and other materials to create this effect.
Awnings - You can use a standard awning, and then cut holes and fray the edges for an aged look, or paint and weather for a more recent installation. Create your own awnings from construction paper and paint. Then weather them.
Weathering occurs naturally with exposure to the sun, rain and wind, especially in locations where water drains off. Water promotes weathering and erosion, especially on stone, brick and masonry work. Chimneys, downspouts, windows, roof vents, air-conditioners and building additions are prime locations for weathering and erosion.
For the best results, start by weathering the whole structure first. If you are airbrushing, use Grimy Black or Weathered Black Floquil to lightly spray in select areas only. Add more where discoloration occurs (under windows and chimneys, along tops of walls).
If you don’t have an airbrush, you can use charcoal or chalk pastels to weather your building. The best way is to scrub the chalk into medium grit sandpaper. Load up a paintbrush with the chalk color. Carefully paint the chalk onto your previously painted structure. You can add weathering underneath windows, the sides of chimneys, under the sides of any kind of fascia, architectural moldings, etc. If you will be handling your buildings, it is best to spray a light coat of Testor’s Dull Coat over the surfaces to protect the weathering techniques.
Don’t forget that when you finally get your buildings done (and they are sitting on your layout) to add plantings around the foundations. Old and neglected buildings usually have vines or shrubs around them. Putting on these layers of detail makes your structures look very realistic.
When placing a building on a contoured layout, measure the area and cut out the terrain shell. Install a foam base so it is level and add the building.
There may be seams and cracks were buildings attach to the layout. Camouflage them with Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf, Underbrush, Bushes or Foliage Products.
When designing your city, be sure to plan for a corner building.
To create caulk/mortar joints on brick or stone building facades: Make sure the wall you are detailing is lying flat, so the "mortar" will spread evenly and not all run to the bottom of the building. Experiment first to get the look you want. Adjust the recipe colors for different looks as well. Load a small brush with the mortar wash (recipe below) and touch it to the mortar line. Let it flow into the cracks. Allow it to dry. A damp cloth can be used to wipe the surface of the bricks before it dries completely to get a cleaner, newer look, or can be left as-is to create a more weathered look.
| 1 part | Concrete or Aged Concrete Acrylic Paint |
| 12 parts | Alcohol |
| 8 parts | Water |
| 1 drop | Liquid dish soap |
Vinyl Mat
